I asked my friend, Li Wei, to say a few words about his favorite vintage Chinese mechanical watch for an upcoming feature here on EWR. His reply was so thorough and beyond my expectations, I decided to give it its own post here.
"Because of its handsome appearance and accurate time, this 304 is the treasure of my collection."
While the Middle Kingdom enjoys one of the longest and most interesting histories of any country, its history in horology is only a relatively small blip on the radar of time. China began manufacturing wristwatches in 1955, and has since become one of the largest producers of both parts (of which many are found in Swiss watches) and movements. Many Chinese brands are earning more appreciation among the international watch community.
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Check out these first images of the Beijing Watch Factory 'State of Mind’, being considered in the Tourbillon and Escapement category of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. There is stiff competition in the category with the likes of Arnold & Son, Zenith, and Ulysse Nardin, to name a few. Beijing Watch Factory has offered something quite unique here, hoping to stand out from the crowd visually. In terms of striking color use and design, I've never seen anything quite so bold from the Beijing brand.
Don't be fooled by the headline, this student is actually one of China's most widely regarded watch experts. Logan Rao Kuan, a 20-year-old Chinese student currently studying in England, is an extremely knowledgeable collector of all things horological.
For those unfamiliar with the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), it is "intended to salute the excellence of worldwide horological production and annually rewards the finest creations and the most important operators in the watchmaking sector."
This year, there are two Chinese brands nominated for their excellent quality and craftsmanship. Hong Kong-based Memorigin is nominated in two categories, while Longio is nominated in another.
An unexpected gem from Tianjin Sea-Gull just recently showed up in the form of their new 200-meter automatic Ocean Star dive watch. The Ocean Star follows up on the success of their Limited Edition Dragon King diver from 2012. There are a few similar elements to the Dragon King, but many more unique features that show a step in the right direction for China's oldest (and the world's largest) watch manufacturer.
In case you haven't seen this piece before and aren't sure exactly what you're looking at, I'll explain. The 3D watch is built to display the time in two different ways, as shown in the two images below. From straight on, you can tell the time as usual with the standard hour and minute hands using the indices on the outer edge of the dial. But you can also read the time by looking at the watch from below the 6 o'clock position.
This past weekend I was in Macau for the first International Exposition of Intangible Cultural Heritage and Ancient Art. I was very fortunate to be invited by my friends from the China Horologe Association to have a look at some cool watch products that were showcased along with many other Chinese cultural relics, both old and new. As the name of the event suggests, this weekend was all about historically important Chinese craftsmanship. I was pleased to be introduced to a brand that was not previously on my radar, Zhang Dao, from Shanghai.
The Rossini 5685T02B is the latest stunner from the Zhuhai brand. The dial finishing is excellent, and the stainless steel case is topped off with an 18K gold bezel that really adds a perfect touch of elegant contrast.
The 1963 Seagull Chronograph (or ‘Project 304’ as it is known in China, which I encourage you to read about in Li Wei's fascinating historical piece found here) is perhaps one of the most iconic and recognizable watches ever to come from China. As Li Wei stated, "Because the 304's production quantity was so small, and because it was a daily-wear watch, original pieces are not easily found today. The Seagull watch factory and watch enthusiasts have been duplicating this watch in a variety of versions in recent years, attempting to satisfy the desires of 304 enthusiasts."
The China Horologe Association announces the creation of The China Watch Overseas Working Committee as a formal committee nominated by the China Horologe Association. All four of the members of this new Committee have developed strong and mutually supportive ties with the China Horologe Association and its member collectors, companies, and executives.
From Benjamin Chee, founder of Maison Celadon: "The ST5’s movement was of such quality that it was one of only three movements that were exempt from converting to producing the Unified Movement (also known as Tongji or Standardized Movement) in the mid-1950s. The survival and high accuracy of so many of these ST5 and Dongfeng watches to this day half a century on is testament to their quality. The watch was clearly of such excellence that select watches were hand-picked and fine-tuned to function accurately under minus 40 degree Celsius conditions and other demands of extreme cold, and issued to the elite team of explorers that led China’s first expedition to the Antarctic in 1984."
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