Ebohr Flying Orbital Tourbillon in motion
Check out these first images of the Beijing Watch Factory 'State of Mind’, being considered in the Tourbillon and Escapement category of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. There is stiff competition in the category with the likes of Arnold & Son, Zenith, and Ulysse Nardin, to name a few. Beijing Watch Factory has offered something quite unique here, hoping to stand out from the crowd visually. In terms of striking color use and design, I've never seen anything quite so bold from the Beijing brand.
Don't be fooled by the headline, this student is actually one of China's most widely regarded watch experts. Logan Rao Kuan, a 20-year-old Chinese student currently studying in England, is an extremely knowledgeable collector of all things horological.
For those unfamiliar with the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), it is "intended to salute the excellence of worldwide horological production and annually rewards the finest creations and the most important operators in the watchmaking sector."
This year, there are two Chinese brands nominated for their excellent quality and craftsmanship. Hong Kong-based Memorigin is nominated in two categories, while Longio is nominated in another.
An unexpected gem from Tianjin Sea-Gull just recently showed up in the form of their new 200-meter automatic Ocean Star dive watch. The Ocean Star follows up on the success of their Limited Edition Dragon King diver from 2012. There are a few similar elements to the Dragon King, but many more unique features that show a step in the right direction for China's oldest (and the world's largest) watch manufacturer.
In case you haven't seen this piece before and aren't sure exactly what you're looking at, I'll explain. The 3D watch is built to display the time in two different ways, as shown in the two images below. From straight on, you can tell the time as usual with the standard hour and minute hands using the indices on the outer edge of the dial. But you can also read the time by looking at the watch from below the 6 o'clock position.
This past weekend I was in Macau for the first International Exposition of Intangible Cultural Heritage and Ancient Art. I was very fortunate to be invited by my friends from the China Horologe Association to have a look at some cool watch products that were showcased along with many other Chinese cultural relics, both old and new. As the name of the event suggests, this weekend was all about historically important Chinese craftsmanship. I was pleased to be introduced to a brand that was not previously on my radar, Zhang Dao, from Shanghai.
The Rossini 5685T02B is the latest stunner from the Zhuhai brand. The dial finishing is excellent, and the stainless steel case is topped off with an 18K gold bezel that really adds a perfect touch of elegant contrast.
The China Horologe Association announces the creation of The China Watch Overseas Working Committee as a formal committee nominated by the China Horologe Association. All four of the members of this new Committee have developed strong and mutually supportive ties with the China Horologe Association and its member collectors, companies, and executives.
In what is looking to be the coolest and most unique Year of the Monkey design yet thus far, this concept will be a collaborative effort from the Central Academy of Fine Arts and Koncise, a luxury watch brand from Beijing famous for its intricately detailed enamel dials.
Back in 2011, China made waves when they completed their first manned deep-sea Pacific Ocean dive to 5,057 meters (16,591 feet) with the submersible named Jiaolong. Read more about the milestone dive here. In 2015 the Shenzhen-based watch brand Golgen teamed up with the Jiaolong crew to create a dive watch with the submersible's namesake. An instant success, the Golgen Jiaolong 6112 won a silver prize at the 2nd China Horologe Design Competition in 2015.
EC, or the Ebohr Complication series, represents the top-of-the-line from the Shenzhen-based Chinese watch brand. EC pieces can range from around $600 up to around $15,000 for the amazing Orbital Tourbillon that we got our hands on here. I've had my eye on this piece, Experience N°2, for some time since seeing it in a shop here in Guangzhou. I was happy to get to spend a bit more time appreciating it during a visit with the company last week.
People born in the Year of the Monkey are considered smart, curious, and drawn to knowledge. They are cultivated, inventive, and creative. It is an ‘earth’ sign associated with good sense. Stubborn yet charming, the monkey loves to perform for an audience and is endowed with great self-esteem. The monkey gathering eight peaches is a traditional Chinese theme that symbolizes longevity and good fortune, since the peach stands for good health and eight is a lucky number. Additionally, the pronunciation of Monkey, Hou, is pronounced the same as another character, 侯, meaning high official, or a person holding a prominent place in society.
Last week, the winners were announced for the 2nd China Horologe Design Competition. The contest, held every two years, was for both real and concept watches and clocks. The following is a roundup of the Gold, Silver, and Bronze winners on the watch side of the competition.
In his 1888 novel Looking Backward 2000-1887, American writer Edward Bellamy predicted a world where cash would be replaced by alternative payment methods. Granted, his predictions came true many years ago with the advent of credit cards, but beginning in just two weeks a major watch brand is paying tribute to the forward thinker by launching their pay-by-the-wrist watch, the BELLAMY, in China.
From Benjamin Chee, founder of Maison Celadon: "The ST5’s movement was of such quality that it was one of only three movements that were exempt from converting to producing the Unified Movement (also known as Tongji or Standardized Movement) in the mid-1950s. The survival and high accuracy of so many of these ST5 and Dongfeng watches to this day half a century on is testament to their quality. The watch was clearly of such excellence that select watches were hand-picked and fine-tuned to function accurately under minus 40 degree Celsius conditions and other demands of extreme cold, and issued to the elite team of explorers that led China’s first expedition to the Antarctic in 1984."
Here's a fun fact: if you take a portion of black paint and add equal parts of every color in the spectrum, the end result will be white. If you then start adding equal parts of each color back into the white paint, the end result will again be black.
Greyhours is a Hong Kong-based watch brand whose philosophy is that the "truth never resides in the extremes," and instead lives somewhere in the grey area between the polar opposites of black and white. Of course, this colorful metaphor could be extended into any aspect of life—politics, religion, etc—but since we only talk about watches here, let's talk about some black, white, grey, and colorful areas of the watch world.
So exactly what is the definition of a pilot's watch, or an aviation watch? No, really...I'm asking, because it seems to be pretty wide open. Chronographs seem to be a popular feature for pilots, and were a mandatory addition for the Chinese Air Force when they commissioned their official pilot's watch from the Tianjin watch factory back in the early 60s. One of the earliest known wristwatches made specifically for a pilot was by Louis Cartier for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was...one of the earliest pilots. Apparently, the famous and flamboyant Santos caused a bit of a stir by wearing his watch on his wrist instead of in his pocket, which triggered some of the first wristwatch craze among the general public.
Is the current tourbillon craze we’re all witnessing going to fade, or is it here to stay? Hong Kong-based Memorigin is one of the brands producing some of the best tourbillon watches in a more affordable price range. Memorigin only produces tourbillon watches, so they’re definitely betting on the future of the mechanism as more than a passing fad, and one that will have a long-term presence. The brand has done a great job of marketing itself and already enjoys recognition as being one of the more interesting modern Chinese watch brands.
This week, a story about a little-known independent watchmaker from Chongqing spread like wildfire among watch enthusiasts in China after being posted online. Qin Gan (秦干) hand-produces enamel dial repeater watches with startlingly interesting features.
I don’t think anyone inside or outside of China will object to the fact that many modern Chinese watch brands simply blend a variety of popular design elements taken from famous international brands, and sprinkle them with bits and pieces of what's trending domestically. China has always been known for its speed and efficiency, but not always for its originality. That’s definitely changing. There are a few brands that aren’t afraid to take risks and move in a completely original and unique direction, and those are what I hope to bring you more of here. With one look at Longio’s Telamon or Asmara watches, it’s clear that the words “original” and “unique” simply aren’t descriptive enough.
I asked several friends and respected collectors to say a few words about their favorite vintage (or vintage-inspired) Chinese mechanical watches. I want to say thanks to each of these gentlemen for taking the time to participate!
我邀请了几位敬畏的收藏家朋友来描述他们最喜欢的复古收藏,（或着带有复古灵感的）中国机械手表。我想在此感谢每一位为能够抽出时间来参于的绅士们！
I asked my friend, Li Wei, to say a few words about his favorite vintage Chinese mechanical watch for an upcoming feature here on EWR. His reply was so thorough and beyond my expectations, I decided to give it its own post here.
"Because of its handsome appearance and accurate time, this 304 is the treasure of my collection."
As I continue to study and learn about the watch industry, there’s one major difference between Chinese and foreign brands that keeps making itself apparent. What is it that separates a “luxury” Chinese brand from luxurious foreign brands?
I’ve always had a preference for dive watches. I love the durable construction and high legibility that they usually offer, and this sort of reliable functionality is what makes some of the most practical watches. However, the domestic Chinese market has, from my exploration so far, mostly enjoyed a more traditional and dressier style of watch, so stepping outside of that safe zone can be a risky thing for a brand to do. JIUSKO (pronounced jee you sko) is a brand that has accepted that challenge and is designing watches with a broader appeal.
The 1963 Seagull Chronograph (or ‘Project 304’ as it is known in China, which I encourage you to read about in Li Wei's fascinating historical piece found here) is perhaps one of the most iconic and recognizable watches ever to come from China. As Li Wei stated, "Because the 304's production quantity was so small, and because it was a daily-wear watch, original pieces are not easily found today. The Seagull watch factory and watch enthusiasts have been duplicating this watch in a variety of versions in recent years, attempting to satisfy the desires of 304 enthusiasts."